News / Phloretin CF
This summer in Portland has been gorgeous!! I must admit, for the first time since I was a kid, I purposefully got a tan and it felt amazing. Now that we're a couple weeks into September it's time to undo some of the damage that has been done.
I started doing the 3 Peel Deal at Urbaca last fall because I wanted my clients to see what a regular series of 3 peels could do for their skin. I did my peel right along with them, once a month for 3 months--I also used Okamura Farmacopia's Rose City Mask and AHA Cleanse at home to do light exfoliation in between treatments. Of course we are all wearing our sunscreen and antioxidants on a daily basis. My clients and I loved the results!
What can peels do for you? Basically, they lighten, tighten and brighten on a superficial level. The down time is much less drastic than peels plastic surgeons/dermatologists perform.
The idea is doing light peels consistently as a preventative measure is a better strategy than one big peel. Though nothing can stop the march of time, peels gently plane down the surface of skin, making wrinkles appear less deep. It may take multiple series of peels to lighten dark spots/sun damage.
Fountain of youth? Not exactly. Beneficial? Definitely!
Stay tuned for my next segment, How Peels Work...
Why does a peel work? The peels I use are a combination of glycolic, salicylic, mandelic, and lactic acids, with a little Retinol thrown in the mix. Some of the peels use denatured alcohol to dissolve excess oils on the skin and aid penetration of the acids.
How do these ingredients work?
Glycolic acid comes from sugar cane and breaks down the glue between dead skin cells, aiding exfoliation.
Salicylic acid derived from the willow tree dissolves excess oil as well as softens keratin, making it an excellent ingredient for oily/acneic and ingrown-hair prone skin types.
Mandelic acid is made from almonds and also dissolves the glue between dead skin cells, more gentle than glycolic acid and useful for dark spots and acne.
Lactic acid comes from milk and is typically the most gentle of acids with the largest molecule size it doesn't penetrate as deeply but is still effective as an exfoliant and moisturizer.
Retinol is derived from Vitamin A and like its prescription cousin, Retin A, speeds sloughing of skin cells.
Captain's Log 5.28.13
Recently encountered a peel dilemma: it's almost summer & my hyperpigmentation (dark spots) is really starting to show.
To peel or not to peel.
More sun on recently peeled skin will make the spots worse and may even create new sunburn damage. Microdermabrasion would have a similar result. Hmm.
- First line of defense, antioxidants. Antioxidants scavenge free radicals, helping to prevent skin cancer. I use SkinCeuticals antioxidants and carry the whole line at Urbaca. Phloretin CF protects and lightens, if I'm feeling dry or I got a little too much sun, I'll use C+E Ferulic. These two antioxidants consistently win Best Of awards and numerous dermatologists use and recommend them. They are spendy, but at their Professionals-Only classes, we were taught the Vitamin C retains a well in your skin for up to 3 days, which means you don't have to use it every day to get the antioxidant benefits. Of course, if you want maximum effect--especially using Phloretin CF to lighten hyperpigmentation--you'd use it every day.
- Sunscreen. Just because you're using antioxidants to protect from UVA (aging rays) damage, you'll still need protection from UVB (burning rays). Yes, every day. Yes, even though we live in Portland.
- Peel. Here's the plan, do a PCA light Jessner's peel without hydroquinone, don't max it out, just a couple of layers. No hydroquinone because the FDA stated that hydroquinone cannot be ruled out as a potential carcinogen. For upkeep I will alternate between the Rose City Mask and PCA's Oxygenating Trio Treatment, they're both quick and painless.
Game on, Summer.